by Melinda Myers
It creeps along the ground, covering the soil’s surface with its leaves. Then, it climbs any stem, plant, or upright structure it contacts by winding its twining stems around and over its victim.
The culprit is field bindweed (Convolvulus arvensis), which, as you may have discovered, is one of the most persistent and difficult weeds to control. It is native to Eurasia but is now found throughout the world and is believed to have arrived here on contaminated farms and garden seeds.
This adaptable plant can be found growing in full sun and full shade. It is drought tolerant, allowing it to outcompete nearby plants. Field bindweed is a fast grower, producing five-foot-deep and ten-foot-diameter root systems with lots of shoots in its first year from seed. Field bindweed grows in natural plantings, gardens, farm fields, greenbelts, forests, and even sprouts in driveways.
The leaves vary in size but are mainly arrowhead in shape with blunt or rounded lobes at the base. The flowers are one-to-two-inch funnel-shaped, white or pink, and resemble morning glory. Seeds form at the base of the flowers, and each plant can produce up to 500 seeds, which can remain viable for as many as 60 years in the soil.
Most of the rhizomes and roots grow in the upper 2 feet of soil, but some can reach as deep as 20 feet. Most produce buds that grow into new plants, and fragments of these can also grow into new plants. It’s not surprising that this weed is so difficult to control since it is impossible to remove all these roots.
Unfortunately, managing field bindweed is not a one-and-done task. You will need a multifaceted approach and are not likely to eradicate it permanently from your landscape.
Be vigilant and persistent in removing plants as soon as they appear. Pulling young seedlings within three to four weeks of sprouting can prevent them from becoming established perennials. Regularly removing established plants can limit carbohydrate storage and weaken them. Removing established plants before they set seed can reduce the number of new plants in next year’s garden.
Smothering the weeds is a long-term process, not practical for most gardeners, and does not guarantee permanent control. An option is to cover the field bindweed-infested area with plastic tarps or a weed barrier covered with several inches of mulch for three to five years. Once the cover is removed, watch for seedlings and shoots to emerge and control them as needed.
Keeping desirable plants healthy so they cover the ground and limit the sunlight this weed receives can help your desirable plants compete with the bindweed. You will still need to manage any field bindweed you find growing along the soil and through the plants.
Systemic herbicides that kill the tops and roots are an option. They need to be applied carefully to avoid damaging nearby desirable plants. Repeat applications are necessary and you’ll have better results when combining this with non-chemical controls. As always, read and follow label directions.
Battling field bindweed can be daunting. Making its management a regular part of your garden maintenance can help you control it enough to allow your desirable landscape plants to thrive.
Melinda Myers has written over 20 gardening books, including Midwest Gardener’s Handbook, 2nd Edition and Small Space Gardening. She hosts The Great Courses “How to Grow Anything” instant video and DVD series and the nationally syndicated Melinda’s Garden Moment radio program. Myers is a columnist and contributing editor for Birds & Blooms magazine. Myers’ website is www.MelindaMyers.com.
